The spiritual presence and natural phenomenon that is the Langtang National park has always been something I have wanted to see with my own eyes. After a month planning the build of a renewal centre in pulchowk and the build application close to submission we felt we deserved to look outside the calm chaos of Kathmandu and take fourdays to explore the Langtang national park. With little research and feeling even less well equipped we headed by motorbike 120 km to Dunche, the Rasuwa capital and starting point for the ancient Pilgrimage that takes you to Gosainkunda. Shiva created these lakes to quench his thirst with the mountain water of Gosainkunda after drinking poison. The well trodden path takes you through ancient forest, over waterfalls, round winding mountain tracks and between the snow covered tops of the Langtang mountain range. Our destination, the
lakes at 4500 meters where we planned like thousands each year to show gratitude to Shiva.
The Road from Kathmandu is winding and rugged. Evidence of post earthquake trauma is everywhere in the constant redevelopment of the roads and houses. We stop for our fist night in Bidur(506 Meters) and are welcomed by Dinesh. A young boy orphaned by last April’s disaster who is now staying with his uncle and auntie in a beautiful spot. We are welcomed with the genuine warmth that I have felt from all Nepalese people and reminded by Dinesh's story and a tremor in the night how Rasuwa was devastated by the disaster.
We drove the winding road to Dunche at 7am. Finally shedding the city and breathing the fresh mountain air we are greeted everywhere with smiles and the occasional chi break. On arrival in Dunche we stock up on minimal supplies and ask the locals advice on the trek. All of who think our time frame is ambitious but possible and we sleep well until more tremors wake us at 3am.
We Begin the pilgrimage at 5:30 am. The First part of the trek passes rivers and waterfalls. The steep steps through the forest tested our stamina and city beaten lungs. As the sun began to rise we stopped for breakfast and where told that there had been far less trekkers and tourism since April 2015. Hopefully this will change soon. In an area reliant on tourism we where happy to be there and wished our ever smiling welcomers prosperity.
The winding steps took us to Sing Gompa (3270m). We had a nutritious lunch and walked higher along a less steep trail, through an enchanting pine forest reaching Cholong Pati (3600m) by evening. We where tired but excited to now be out of the forest and able to view the Spectacular views of the Langtang mountain range to our left and Tibet to our right. I took short walk to a nearby peak the full moon came up and lit the mountains like daylight.
If the Photographs I took capture a fraction of the beauty that night I am very happy.
We slept for 3 hours before waking and take a look out the window. Partly inspired by our construction meeting in Kathmandu in 2 days and partly by the bright moonlight, we start the last part of the pilgrimage at 3am. Our eyes adjust to the moonlight very quickly and we climb in the night the final 900 meters.
We stopped for a breakfast of champions. Two Bananas, 1/2 jar peanut butter, 1 orange and a quarter of whisky. The crumbled Temple behind us another reminder of the power of the earth and the view of mountains on every side made me feel humble. The final 370m where the hardest. Bitten by the cold and feeling the air get thinner we where beginning to get very tired. The path takes round a steep pass with long drops. We wait in the cold until the sunrise hits us and the heat and energy help us complete the final steps to Gosainkunda (4370m). The frozen lakes welcome us with an orchestra of groans and cracks. The two days sun that preceded us has thawed the lake and the noises of cracking and
shifting sounded like Chanting. We where the only two people there and we basked in the sun, walked on the frozen lake, paid our respects to Shiva at the temple and slept for a couple of hours feeling very peaceful.
The trek down was quick and exciting. As the sun hit the path the Pyrite rich sand glistened and sparkled. Yet another Ingredient to add to the Magic of Gosaikunda. The familiar path got easier as we plummeted in altitude. After twisting my knee and using my camera tripod as a walking stick, we reached Dunche as evening broke. Feeling exhausted, sore, accomplished and overwhelmed by the atmosphere of Gosaikunda sleep was the best option. The drive back to Kathmandu was quick. We hobbled into our construction meeting at 5pm on Tuesday after a life changing four days. I write this diary in an attempt to inspire others to
make the worthwhile trip to Langtang and experience the humbling nature that Nepal has in abundance. It was a weekend I will never forget.
